Among the carnivores, I was fascinated by lions, tigers and leopards. Having lived in Gujarat all my life and having a friend living at Gir, I had seen many lions. When I got married in Odisha and lived with the Khadia and Mankadia tribals inside the core area of the Simlipal Tiger Reserve at Baripada, sighting tigers at Devasthali was a routine affair. However, I happened to sight a leopard only a few times. Once at Kumaon, when I was at Ascot wildlife sanctuary and once at Jalana Doongri near Jaipur. But one glimpse of this magnificent animal had me hooked.

So, when I came to know that one of Rajasthan’s most eco-friendly leopard camps is located at Jawai Bandh, Bera which is a six hour drive from Ahmedabad, I decided to visit this camp aptly named “Bagheeras’ Camp”. There are many resorts near Bera and Jawai Bandh, but the choice is clear! There is only one eco- friendly camp without Television and without air-conditioning and which rations water, which is Bagheeras’!

Bagheeras’ Camp is located on the foothills in the plateau which separates the east and west Aravalli ranges. The Aravallis start near Delhi and stretch all the way upto the Rajasthan-Gujarat border, near Mount Abu and covers an area of 7000 hectares. Bagheeras’ Camp is surrounded by bush trees and dry deciduous forests stretching to 400 square kilometres! Some parts of these forests are moist deciduous too! On the Beawar-Pali Highway take the right pass to Sumerpur and drive through the forests to Bagheeras’ (located 2 km. away from Jawai Bandh Railway Crossing). One reaches Bagheeras’ Camp, ten minutes after crossing Dudani village. Ask locals for Bagheeras’ Camp near Kambeshwar Mahadev.

There are many leopard trails seen near Bagheeras’ Camp. Some of these lead to rust coloured rivers, unexplored caves and ancient metamorphic, igneous granite cliff formations. These trails range from 2 km. to 6 km. and have different gradients of difficulty. Leopards can only be sighted after 5:00 a.m. and after 6:00 p.m. for a duration of 60 minutes each, throughout the week. Allow 30 minutes travel time to reach the caves from one’s resort.

Some of the other wildlife found at Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh include Indian eagle owls, Small minivets, blue bulls, ruddy mongoose, striped hyenas, Asian steppe wild cat, rock chinkara, crocodiles, migratory raptors, snakes and sloth bears. The cottage seen in the above picture is built by Team Bagheeras’ Camp as a drought relief project, 80 percent of the material used is reused and recycled! This is an art installation done by Padmaja Rajnandini Rathore as a part of her concept of Swayana Adhyayan (School of Self Study named after her great grandmother Raj Dadisa Badan Kanwar.

One passes through Dudani village during one’s drive from Jawai Bandh Railway Station to Bagheeras’ Camp. Bagheeras’ Camp arranges a jeep safari to Lilada hill for leopard watching. Jeeps leave at 5 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. to sight leopards during winter. The best chance to see leopards is from 5:30 a.m. to 7 a.m. and from 5:30

p.m. to 7 p.m. One can surely sight a leopard at close quarters once in three days, during these two safaris. The morning safari costs Rs. 3500/- per person by a 4 seater jeep and evening safari costs Rs. 3000/- The safari lasts for 150 minutes.

The leopard is a more elusive creature and you might come across one if you stay for three or four days and take the safari twice a day. I had spotted a tiger during my first visit to Simlipal Tiger Reserve in Odisha way back in 2002. On my maiden visit to Odisha, I was making my way to the Chahalla Forest Guest House inside Simlipal, when I sighted the tiger crossing my path at a distance of 20 feet, within 30 minutes of entering the forest. However, it would be prudent to stay that a stay of atleast three nights if not more, is needed to spot the leopard at

Bagheeras’ Camp , unless you are as fortunate as I was at Simlipal Tiger Reserve in Odisha. I was unfortunate enough to miss spotting the leopard during my first two visits to Lilada. Howevever, I could sight leopard pugmarks which indicated the presence of the leopard on my safari as I came out of my camp!

The unique feature of Bagheeras’ Camp is a brainstorming tent at the entrance which can double up as a meeting point before one’s jungle treks. One can sight several species of local and migratory birds from this tent including Red Vented Bulbuls, Indian Robins, Small Minivet and Green Bee-eater. Breakfast, lunch and dinner can be served here on request.

Bagheeras’ Camp is a luxury homestay with two eco-friendly cottages built with traditionally procured construction material. Four eco-friendly tents are pitched in the camp for individuals seeking volunteer services, this number can be increased on request. There are camping facilities and dormitory accommodation for school children who would like to experience the outdoors. Meditation huts are erected on top of the rocky hills for individuals seeking solitude for spiritual pursuits.

One can sight several blue bulls and the occasional hare during one’s morning walk at Bagheeras’ Camp to watch the sunrise. Ten years ago, this area was decimated due to overgrazing, now is an Oran (Wild landscape sworn to be protected for its soil, trees and water).

One of the most memorable sunrises in Rajasthan can be seen from one’s jeep after the short trip to Jawai Dam, which is a fifteen minutes drive away from Bagheeras’ Camp.

There are several leopards in the wild around Jawai and at times are sighted on the steps of the local temples too! The Aravallis around Bera are full of uninhabited caves which these leopards have occupied and made home. As there are only a few natural prey near Bera, the leopards are forced to raid neighbouring villages and prey on dogs, goats and cattle. The villagers are so used to leopards that they ignore their losses to leopards by seeing the leopard as a divine vehicle of the Mother Goddess.(Durga). In the last ten years, Bagheeras’

Camp has been working to increase the smaller prey base. Padmaja Rajnandini has converted her dissertation which she completed from IHM Aurangabad, University of Huddersfield into a ten year practical observation and footnotes of her research methodology. Bagheeras’ Camp also known as Pugmarks in college with a team of ten peers is now Bagheeras’ Camp with a bright future in the field of hospitality, conservation and preservation.

The forest trail now begins to disappear and one is constantly driving on giant rocks to maintain one’s pace. One can see a giant water body at the distance which is Jawai Lake! Devisinghji Ranawat informed me that this was the watering hole of the leopard and most spotting of leopards were in the late evenings or early mornings at Lilada.

I have been blessed to have had close encounters with the Royal Bengal Tiger inside the Simlipal Tiger Reserve at Odisha, Kanha, Bandhavgadh, Corbett, Ranthambore and Rajaji and I could see fresh pugmarks of the leopard near Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh! I was also invited by other resorts near Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh for property visits but declined as I wanted to spend more time with Padmaja Singh Rathore and her team at Bagheeras’ Camp. Unlike other tour operators who rush to spot leopards in hordes, the eco- sensitive team members of Bagheeras’ prefer to wait and watch and as usual their patience pays off at the end of the day!

More than leopards, I was fortunate enough to sight several species of local and migratory birds in and around Bagheeras’ Camp itself. Being an avid birdwatcher, the birds of Bagheeras’ Camp itself warrants a two night stay at the camp if not more! The range of birds sighted in winter ranges from Shikra Hawks to Black Shouldered Kites to Bar Headed Geese among numerous others. Wildlife seen around the camp includes Desert Fox, Blue Bulls, Common Indian Langurs and Mongooses.

The leopardess moves stealthily towards the mountain stream and after quenching its thirst rests under the shade of a giant tree, at her cave located on the left side of two rocks resembling the English alphabet T. Whenever you visit Bera head for Lilada and keep your binoculars and handycams focused on the small cave to the left of this T rock formation.

Photographing wildlife is being at the right place at the right time with the right camera, not waiting with tripods, DSLRs, rug-sacks with several lenses and one foot long zoom lenses. A point and shoot camera with 50x optical zoom is all that is needed for capturing perfect photographs.

I have visited almost all wildlife sanctuaries and National Parks in India and nine other countries and clicked most of my photographs with a handheld point and shoot camera and my photographs have been published in travel magazines across the world and still continue to be published. Photography is all about perfect timing.

There are several ancient trees inside Bagheeras’ Camp. The trunks of some of these giant trees are as wide as five feet, having stood undisturbed over hundred years. There are 70 leopards in the terrain around Bagheeras’ and leopard sightings are fairly common.

On the third safari, we were fortunate enough to see Greater Flamingoes at close quarters. The temperature near Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh in end December is extremely cold from 7 p.m. till 7 a.m. Rest of the time is pleasant. Coming face to face with the Blue Bull is an unforgettable experience.

I could view wildlife throughout my stay at Bagheeras’ Camp. On the way to Bagheeras’ Camp, I could photograph a Small Minivet and Bar Headed Geese. On the return, I drove from Bagheeras’ Camp to Pushkar and enroute, I could photograph the snout of a solitary crocodile, besides several Indian langurs.

I must mention that the drive through the jungles took us to three isolated caves where leopard spotting were common atleast once every week. I was shown the observation points directly opposite these caves and was also invited to stay at Bagheeras’ Camp during my next visit for a sureshot chance of seeing one of Bera’s 70 leopards by Padmaja Singh Rathore. Trivendra also arranged for my visit to the temple of the local deity at Kambeshwar near Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh, where once in a month, leopards are randomly sighted. You might see a leopard at the temple steps if you have the blessings of the Lord Shiva. Kambeshwar cave-temple is located just 500 metres away from Bagheeras’ Camp.

I must not fail to mention that lots of local villagers have turned leopard trackers overnight and spend their whole day perched under leopard hotspots waiting for the leopard to enter their caves. Once the leopards enter the cave, these guides rush to nearby hotels and carry a cavalcade of jeeps with wildlife researchers, tourists and wildlife photographers who jostle with one another for parking space at 5 a.m. and 5 p.m.

However, what these leopard trackers do not know is that wild animals are unpredictable and leopards have nine times stronger sense of hearing than humans and tend to be shy creatures who prefer to venture out, after the rocks turn cool and when there is pindrop silence. If you really want to sight a leopard, just go alone to Kambeshwar with a litre of water, a few books, binoculars and wait on the rocks, opposite the temple a few hours before 5 p.m. and mentally visualise a leopard on the temple steps! Then in silence, call the leopard to the temple steps by chanting “Bagheera asi” “Bagheera asi”. And you will see a leopard on the steps of the temple by 6 p.m. You can read books during this mental chanting and sip water.

I also went for an early morning trek outside Bagheeras’ Camp to sight Blue Bulls. I must admit that walking through the dense overgrowth in the twilight hours of the morning to photograph Blue Bulls was one close encounter with nature, which I will always remember throughout my life. Padmaja who is a TEDx speaker has spent ten years of her life rewilding the flora and fauna in the area of Kambeshwar Mahadev and Bera with the local tribes.

After a two hour wait to sight the leopard near Bagheeras’ Camp, we returned empty handed as the light had faded but the memory of this event will be etched on my unconscious mind forever.

The Rathore family at Bagheeras’ Camp arranges for the nature safari to all leopard sighting points around Bagheeras’ Camp. No resorts in Bera help their guests spot leopards, without getting into a jeep except for Bagheeras’. Leopard’s can be sighted inside caves on the rocks near Bagheeras’ Camp. Avoid unsolicited advice from Non-Governmental Wildlife protection research teams, so called leopard experts, wildlife photographers and even your jeep driver. Just let the leopard find you like I did.

Padmaja Rathore and her family has been in the field of environmental conservation since the last 50 years, just as tips4ceos.com has been the first and most read travel blog in India, since 1995. Our combined experience can increase your chances of sighting a leopard! I wholeheartedly recommend Bagheeras’ Camp for a value for money experience rather than the jongas of the amateurs! Also, never read any glossy coffee table book on leopards which are distributed free, as they are fictitious creations of Delhi based wildlife photographers who are marketing agents for upscale hotels.

Even the little text they have managed to scribble under their photographs will lead you nowhere. No forest permits are needed to sight the leopards near Bagheeras’ Camp. Permission is required for release of documentary films. Camera traps are not allowed.

How to get there:

The nearest international airport to reach Bagheeras’ Camp is at New Delhi and the nearest domestic airport to reach Bagheeras’ Camp is at Udaipur. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Bagheeras’ Camp from New Delhi.

By flight:

The easiest way to get to Udaipur is by flight. Udaipur is connected to Ahmedabad, Mumbai and New Delhi by direct flights. The easiest way to get from Udaipur to Bagheeras’ Camp is by car. This 140 km. trip takes two and a half hours. RSRTC buses take three hours for the same journey. Jodhpur Airport is also located 140 km from Bagheeras’ Camp.

By road:

One can also drive down the 607 km. from New Delhi to Bera in 10 hours flat.

By train:

The nearest Railway Station to reach Bagheeras’ Camp is at Jawai Bandh located 10 km. away. If your train does not pass through Jawai Bandh, the alternative is Falna Station located 30 km. away. Bagheeras’ Camp can arrange pick-up and drop from Udaipur airport, Falna Station and Jawai Bandh Station at extra cost.

Where to eat?:

The vegetarian breakfast at Bagheeras’ Camp includes alu paranthas with coriander chutney. There are very few vegetarian dhabas near Bagheeras’ Camp who dish up simple fare like roti, dal,aloo ki sabzi etc. Fresh fruits including bananas, papayas and pomegranates are available at streetside kiosks enroute to Bagheeras’ Camp. Purchase seedless dates, walnuts, raisins and cashews enroute to Bagheeras’ Camp and store in an airtight metal tiffin as I did, to recharge yourself during the long wait for leopards. The lunch for pure vegetarians is home cooked and is as delicious as it looks. I had desi bajra rotlas, with Rajasthani dal, baingan ki sabji, alu ki sabji and bajra porridge. The Bajra porridge is Bagheeras’ signature dish and is lip-smacking! All vegetables are grown organically in their own farms or sourced from nearby organic farms. Bagheeras’ has an eco-friendly kitchen and can whip up vegan recipes on request. I rate the food among the best in Rajasthan and is certainly vegan friendly. Thanks to Chef Tina and Indira for whipping up vegan delicacies throughout my stay at the camp. Laukee Soup, Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Coriander chutney and Roasted Batis with vegan dal are highly recommended.

Where to stay at Jawai Bandh?:

Bagheeras’ Camp is the best place to stay near Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh. A deluxe double-room tent costs approximately. Rs.6500/- per night (including breakfast but exclusive of taxes). High spending Indian tourists frequent Bagheeras’ Camp Luxury Resort at this time of the year.

The rooms are spacious and can comfortably accommodate a family of two. The bathrooms are comfortable, with hot and cold water showers. Single occupants pay Rs. 4500/- per night. The jeep safari at 5 a.m. costs Rs. 6000/- per jeep and the all day jeep safari costs Rs. 10000 per jeep. There are 2 luxury suites at Bagheeras’ Camp, Each luxury suite is priced at Rs. 330000 per suite and is inclusive of all meals and taxes for 2 to 4 persons in the suite. It also includes two safaris. Advance booking is recommended. Call Padmaja Singh Rathore on +91- 8209039762 for bookings. Bagheeras’ also offers digital detox retreats from Rs. 2500/- per person onwards.

 

The weather in December ranges from pleasant to extremely cold after sunset and before sunrise. However, impromptu showers are rare. I slept at 8 p.m. and woke up at 4 a.m.

Bagheeras’ is a socially conscious resort and employs local tribals from nearby villages. They also educate village children who have not had formal schooling and teach them English and hospitality management. This is a unique feature of Bagheeras’ Camp Resort -A social enterprise, wildlife sensitive homestay retreat and even the professionally run hotels can learn a thing or two from this family run resort in a tiny village on the Rajasthan-Gujarat border.

After the attraction of the leopards have worn off, one can visit Jawai Dam to sight crocodiles or visit the Ramji Bapji temple inside Bera Fort or just curl up with a book in your cottage. Nestled in the natural beauty of the wild, Bagheeras’ Camp is one of Rajasthan’s leading luxury jungle resorts on the edge of the legendary Jawai Dam. While it is pleasant in the day, the mornings and nights are extremely cold in December end. The best time to visit the resort is from October to March.

I was truly impressed with the level of detail which Padmaja’s family have considered while constructing this resort. The upholstery, lock and key were all very much unique to Bagheeras’. I was happy with the design of the room, as it was so well ventilated. There are no air conditioners or Television sets in the suites at Bagheeras’. , I could sleep in the afternoons. I spent a day with the Bagheeras’ team and was truly impressed by their traditional hospitality. I went to Bagheeras’ as a guest but left as a long lost friend. I am already preparing to send all my classmates at St. Xavier’s College to spend a weekend at Bagheeras’ Camp, Jawai Bandh to celebrate our next alumni get-together.

I also loved their food as it had lots of vegan options to choose from. Several delicious vegan soups are available for vegans. All the staff members were very helpful during our stay and we are specially thankful to Ms. Padmaja Singh Rathore (owner) for her valued time in letting me know about the property and helping me making my trip memorable. This place is highly recommended and I intend to go back again in monsoon when the jungle is lush green.

I return after my jeep safari to a refreshing glass of nimbu-pani and some organic soups (without iodized salt) at Bagheeras’ Camp, managed effectively by Padmaja and her team. I must compliment all at Bagheeras’ for their patience, as I was constantly forgetting chargers, water bottles, and my Tibetan Singing Bowl in their jeep, having been hypnotised by seeing the wildlife! Needless to say , all my belongings were promptly sent to my cottage within an hour. The hot water showers, dissolved all my aches and pains after the safari and I soon drifted off to sleep while listening to the chirping sounds emanating from those winged crooners who have made the giant bamboo groves outside my cottage, their home. The birds seen at Bagheeras’ Camp alone are a reason to visit this hidden paradise where one can truly be with nature…

Bagheeras’ Camp is an ideal place to unwind and curl up for a nap after returning from one’s morning or evening safari. The most exciting part of living at Bagheeras’ Camp was to expect the appearance of wildlife at dawn and dusk. The common Indian langur, Greater Coucal and peacocks are often seen on the trees surrounding this picturesque resort. For bookings email bagheerascamp@gmail.com

Bagheeras’ camp is every birdwatchers dream come true. I sighted more birds at Bagheeras’ than many National Parks in India. My experience of staying in a tent perched on the peak of a rocky hill, overlooking the Aravallis on a full moon night in December cannot be expressed in words. The silence of these puppets seen on the wall of Bagheeras’ Camp speaks more than a hundred reviews on travel portals. I recommend schools to send students on camping trips to Bagheeras’. Environmentalists can learn from Padmaja who has rejuvenated the eco-system of this drought prone Godwad region of Rajasthan into a sparkling green emerald nestled in the palm of nature.

Every good thing must come to an end and I bid Padmaja and her team goodbye, to proceed to Pushkar.