After having lived in Gujarat close to thirty years of my fifty-two years on this planet, I have travelled to the most interior pockets of Gujarat and Rajasthan. But however, last month I made a trip to Lotwara, which is only a two-hour drive from Jaipur, but returned back with a treasure trove of memories, having visited one of the most beautiful step-wells in India. This step-well named “Chand Baori” is located near Lotwara village on the Agra Jaipur Highway. Abhaneri step-well is a 105 km. drive from Jaipur. The Chand Baori was built over a thousand years ago in the Abhaneri village near Heritage Fort Lotwara in Rajasthan. It is one of the largest stepwells in the world!

I have just returned after a memorable trip to Heritage Fort Lotwara, near the ninth century Harsiddhi Mata temple and Abhaneri step-well, both ancient heritage monuments. The visit lasted a few hours, but its memory will last a lifetime. At Lotwara, I visited an ancient architectural wonder which I would like to share with our esteemed readers.

I visited “Abhaneri stepwell” or (Chand Baori (pronounced “bawdi”) in Marwari), which is a million times more majestic than any of the so called wonders of the world. I am extremely happy that this ancient treasure is hidden from the cynosure of materialistic tourists and offers a great experience to Indian families who want to spend a blissful day away from the vagaries of stressful life and spend a day in bliss. This is exactly what I experienced during my visit. Abhaneri step-well was built by the Pratihara ruler King Chand, one thousand years ago.

I started writing this on the drive back to Ahmedabad. Being an international expert on time management, I had transferred all photographs into my laptop while travelling. I would like all our ZeNLP Workshop participants to experience the natural wonders of India and feel free to forward the link of this blog and photographs to your family, friends and young Indians in the fifteen to thirty age group, as what the mind sees, reads, conceives and believes it achieves. I am already making plans for my next trip which will be a journey into the micro interiors of Kerala through Goa, Hyderabad, Bengaluru, Mysore and Coorg. Await our next travel blog after I return.

The most amazing part of my adventure is that I am more energized after returning from this never ending journey. ZeNLP meditation, vegan diet and creative visualisation keep me energised at all times throughout my travels. For all you senior citizens, who like to travel using the computer, our travel blog has helped you re-experience my adventure from the comfort of your chair, so please share it with all fellow silvers! For those interested in further reading, you can email us, I have written 10 travel guides, over the last 25 years. All these guides and photos are hosted at tips4ceos.com, We will provide you a username and password for a free no-obligatory 30 day trial. All Indian and international travel magazines, newspapers and websites who would like to publish our guides as a travel feature and would like to access our original high resolution professional quality photographs can email us for permissions for republishing and payment terms. All content on our website tips4ceos.com is copyright protected.

“Chand Baori” is a famous step-well situated near Lotwara village in Rajasthan. The step-well is one thousand years old and was built by the Chand kings alongwith the adjacent Harsiddhi Mata Temple which is being painstakingly being restored by the A.S.I. Chand Baori or Abhaneri step-well was constructed during the period of the Chand dynasty. It is a richly sculptured monument with several beautiful sculptures of Lord Ganesha, Shakti Mataji and Harsiddhi Mataji which are taken from the temple and restored and kept in the galleries surrounding this ancient monument.

Chand Baori has steps built into the sides that lead down to the cobalt blue water. Chand Baori one was built during the 8th and 9th centuries and has 3,500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetrical formations, which descend to the bottom of the well. Centuries ago, the stepwells were built in the arid zones of Rajasthan to provide water all year through.

Today, the construction is not used as a well anymore but its exquisite geometry attracts local and international visitors alike. About 64 feet deep, it is India’s largest and deepest stepwell with 13 floors and was built in the 9th century for water harvesting. It was so named as it was built by King Chand Raja from the Gurjara Pratihara clan, who claim to be the descendants of Lord Ram’s younger brother Laxman. The Pratihara dynasty was at their peak during 6th-10th century AD, and also ruled over other parts of Rajasthan. Their capital was Mandore near Jodhpur. The Baori has a precise geometrical pattern, hard to find in this age.

I enjoyed every bit of my “Rajasthan Darshan” trip and came back enriched with the experience of learning from the countless co-passengers and workshop participants I met during my travels. ZeNLP believes in continuous learning and we enrich our interactive workshops with the wisdom of folk-tales, proverbs and stories we have learnt from our travel experiences over the decades.

I enjoyed every bit of my “Rajasthan Darshan” trip and came back enriched with the experience of learning from the countless co-passengers and workshop participants I met during my travels. ZeNLP believes in continuous learning and we enrich our interactive workshops with the wisdom of folk-tales, proverbs and stories we have learnt from our travel experiences over the decades. Please email feedback about this travel blog to zenlp@rediffmail.com.

It was one of the largest and the most sumptuous structures of its type. Almost all the steps at the well are visible now, including the steps leading to the water. The pillars are proof not only of the elegance of its design but also a tribute to the engineering abilities and visualisation skills of the artisans. I am certain that the most advanced nations on this planet with present day technology cannot build a step-well of this grandeur! Ancient wisdom beats the left brained thinking of the present day. That is why, we base our ZeNLP meditation workshops on ancient wisdom. A part of the west well is extended from which it appears that the wall had been built in brick and laced with stone.

From this wall, projections of vertical brackets can be seen. These brackets support the different galleries of the well shaft. This bracketing is arranged in tiers and is richly carved. Most of the sculptures are in devotion to Mataji. Around 50 to 60 years back there used to be lemongrass around this area which made the water in the step-well alkaline. This alkaline lemongrass flavoured water accumulated in “Chand Baori” is extremely good for health for bathin

Visiting this step-well which is known as “Chand Baori” is a once in a life time experience. Minute details are visible in the finer features of each sculpture, be it that of the celestial nymphs dancing in lines or Gods and Goddesses.

After entering Lotwara Fort, one encounters a wall running around this heritage hotel with 12 rooms renovated early this year and ready to welcome guests this winter. Two giant trees protect Lotwara Fort like soldier’s guarding a king. Lots of migratory birds have made their homes on these giant trees and sing their flowery tunes at dawn. Peacocks are seen dancing under the giant Peepal tree inside Lotwara Fort, whereas hundreds of Plum Headed Parakeets scream at sunset from the branches of the giant Banyan tree located a bit away from the five hundred year old Peepal tree. The Banyan tree is as old as the Peepal if not older!

Rajasthan would do better to showcase its tourism through “Abhaneri step-well.” rather than personality cults. I have travelled to 35 countries but the finesse in the hypnotic symmetrical steps at “Chand Baori exceed the skills of anything I have seen abroad. And this anything includes all sculptures created by the west in the last 5000 years.

The step-well has seven levels of symmetrical steps and it is mind boggling to think, how this marvellous structure was constructed a thousand hundred years ago by the Rajput kings when modern architects with computerized tools cannot even dream of building a similar structure!

Step-wells are subterranean structures with steps leading down to the water level and are found in large numbers in the arid regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan . They started as simple structures, and in course of time, these wells evolved to become complex, aesthetically pleasing works of art. The Abhaneri step-well is the most beautiful amongst all step-wells I have ever seen in Rajasthan.

Heritage Fort Lotwara is the only Heritage hotel which is a ten minute drive from Abhaneri step-well and is the ideal place to relax while exploring Chand Baori! The “baori” is laid out in an east-west direction, with the entrance in the east and the well in the west. The entrance, the side-walls of the stepped corridor, some of the ‘mandapas’ and the back wall of the well are majestic. Five lateral, staggered staircases attached to these side-walls connect the various storeys of Abhaneri step-well.

Heritage Fort Lotwara is an elegant hotel with 12 rooms which is the only place to stay for Indian and foreign tourists when they would like to explore Abhaneri step-well and Harsiddhi Mataji temple. Giriraj Singh Lotwara is the architect behind Heritage Fort Lotwara

Heritage Fort Lotwara was renovated under the eagle eye of Giriraj Singh Lotwara and his son Lokendra Singh Lotwara. They also maintain and manage this heritage hotel which offers a personalised heritage experience for all tourists wanting to explore Abhaneri step-well while enroute from Agra to Jaipur or vice-versa.

Exploring Heritage Fort Lotwara is in itself a memorable experience and spending time with Lokendra and knowing about the history of his ancestors who constructed Heritage Fort Lotwara five hundred years back is in itself unforgettable. Giriraj Singhji who is also the President of the Rajput Sabha, Jaipur and wears many hats including those of an Ayurvedic practitioner, qualified lawyer and architect restoring heritage structures! Despite its open architecture that exposes it to the intense heat, the well has its own climate at the bottom. It is about 5-6 degrees cooler than up above even today! Built by Raja Chand between the 8th and 9th century, this baori was dedicated to Harsiddhi Mata, Goddess of joy and happiness!

There are several giant trees which are about 500 years old in Lotwara. It was a delight to visit and hug these giant trees to soak in the cosmic energy inside these trees.

 

 

How to get there?:

The nearest international airport to reach Heritage Fort Lotwara is at New Delhi and the nearest domestic airport to reach Heritage Fort Lotwara is at Jaipur. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Jaipur from New Delhi. The 105 km. drive between Jaipur to Lotwara takes about 120 minutes. The nearest railhead is Bandikui which is 20km. away. Agra Airport is located 125 km. away from Lotwara.

Where to stay at Lotwara?:

Heritage Fort Lotwara is the only heritage hotel near Abhaneri step-well. A deluxe double-room costs approximately. Rs.4500/- per night (including all meals and taxes for two persons). High spending Indian and foreign tourists frequent Heritage Fort Lotwara at this time of the year. Students of design or architecture and birdwatchers are recommended to visit Lotwara for weekend breaks.

The rooms are spacious and can comfortably accommodate a family of four with extra beds. The bathrooms are comfortable, with hot and cold water showers. The Abhaneri step-well visit including a chauffer driven car and packed vegan lunch costs Rs. 1500/- per person inclusive of entry fee. As there are only 12 double rooms at Heritage Fort Lotwara, advance booking is recommended. Call Lokendra Singh Lotwara/Giriraj Singhji/Amrendra Singh Lotwara on +91- 9929880684/9929648512/9460765756 for bookings.

Where to eat?:

 Heritage Fort Lotwara is the best place to eat. The vegetarian breakfast includes farm fresh, whole wheat paranthas with mint chutney and sattu porridge. There are a few vegetarian dhabas near the Lotwara village who dish up simple fare like roti, dal,aloo ki sabzi etc. Vegans can get fresh fruits including bananas, water- melons and musk melons at streetside kiosks at the nearby market. Purchase seedless dates, walnuts, raisins and cashews enroute to Abhaneri step-well and store in an airtight metal tiffin, to recharge yourself during the drive.

The lunch for pure vegetarians is home cooked and is delicious . I had desi whole wheat parathas, with dal, dudhi ki sabji and rice for lunch which was perfectly vegan. Lots of small restaurants serving Rajasthani cuisine are found all along the highway from Agra to Jaipur. Hot Bajra (millet) rotis are served with Rajasthani Dal flavoured with garlic and potatoes cooked in a mild gravy flavoured with cumin.