The mystery of traveling to an unknown destination is like learning a new language. One reads numerous dictionaries, books and even “Learning Languages for Dummies”. After mastering a few short sentences, you locate a native speaker to practice speaking and start parroting your rehearsed lines. As your sparring partner stares blankly at your monologue, you do not know how your accents have turned out to be and if what you said was what was understood or whether you made a complete fool of yourself by mispronouncing niceties as insults!

One is writing this from the cool confines of one’s garden facing room at Fort Nahargarh in Ranthambore, in the state of Rajasthan. Ranthambore is located 126 km. away from Jaipur. Ranthambore National Park is located on the mountain ridge which separates the east and west Aravalli ranges. The Aravallis start near Delhi and stretch all the way upto the Rajasthan-Gujarat border, near Mount Abu and covers an area of 7000 hectares. Ranthambore National Park consists of continuous dry deciduous forests stretching to 400 square kilometres! Some parts of these forests are moist deciduous too!

There are many safari trails within Ranthambore. Some of these lead to rust coloured rivers, underwater caves and limestone cliff formations. These trails range from 20 km. to 30 km. and have different gradients of difficulty. The Park opens at 6:00 a.m. and closes at 6:00 p.m. throughout the week. Some of the wildlife found inside the park includes wild boar, barking deer, spotted deer, sambar, tiger, leopards, crocodiles and sloth bears.

One passes through the historic city of Tonk during one’s drive from Jaipur to Ranthambore. The forest department arranges a jeep and bus safari inside the tiger reserve for tourists. Buses leave at 6 a.m., 7 a.m., 8 a.m., 3:00 p.m., 4:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. The best chance to see wildlife is the 6:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. safaris. One can surely sight spotted deer and sambar at close quarters during these two safaris. The safari costs Rs. 500/- by a 20 seater bus and Rs. 750/- by a six seater jeep. The safari lasts for 150 minutes.

The tiger is a more elusive creature and you might come across one if you stay for three or four days and take the safari twice a day. I had spotted a tiger during my first visit to Simlipal Tiger Reserve in Odisha way back in 2002. On my maiden visit to Odisha, I was making my way to the Chahalla Forest Guest House inside Simlipal, when I sighted the tiger crossing my path at a distance of 20 feet, within 30 minutes of entering the forest. However, it would be prudent to stay that a stay of atleast three nights if not more, is needed to spot the tiger at Ranthambore National Park, unless you are as fortunate as I was at Simlipal Tiger Reserve in Odisha.

The extreme heat, dense undergrowth and thick forest cover makes driving a challenge! I was accompanied by two experienced forest guards, who could drive and spot wildlife from the corner of their eyes at the same time. The first five hundred metres are relatively easy, but a slow climb up the hill nevertheless. One can feel a sensation of vertigo, as one’s jeep moves up the hill through a winding mud road. The obstacles here are patches of quicksand, stones, rocks and boulders and not the trees. Bamboo groves and khejri trees line up both sides of the path.

One can sight a few stray deer and an occasional wild boar during the initial phase of one’s jeep safari. The wild sounds of the forest pervade the morning air. Chirps of sparrows, whines of hornbills, squeaks of the monkeys, clicking sound of monitor lizards and screams of peacocks.

The jeep winds its way up the slope. After thirty minutes of non-stop driving, one comes across several spotted deer crossing the mountain streams. One stops one’s jeep under the canopy of the bamboo groves, on the banks of the stream. After a short break, one re-enters one jeep to drive deeper into the jungle to spot the Royal Bengal Tiger! After one enters deeper into the jungle, the mud road disappears and one is driving on pebbles, stones, rocks, grass and twigs. As we proceed deeper into the jungle the number of animals spotted continues to increase.

We passed several herds of spotted deer and also saw two stags polishing their antlers by rubbing it against each other in a simulation of a mock fight. We could also spot a solitary barking deer, which disappeared in a flash on being photographed. However the accompanying photograph shows the disappearing deer.

The forest trail now begins to disappear and one is constantly driving on roots of giant trees to maintain one’s pace. One can see several small lakes and a forest beat guard on a motorcycle inside the forest! My forest guard informed me that this was the watering hole of the tiger and most spotting of tigers were in the late evenings or early mornings at this watering hole. However, I have had close encounters with the Royal Bengal Tiger inside the Simlipal Tiger Reserve at Odisha, Kanha, Bandhavgadh, Corbett and Rajaji National Park and I sighted seven tigers during my three day stay at Fort Nahargarh! I was also invited by Taj Sawai Madhopur Lodge and Oberoi Vanya Vilas for property visits and was gifted an autographed tiger painting by the internationally known painter from Ranthambore Murlidhar Parashar, thanks to my simple hobby which is palmistry! My whatsapp number is +918460578357.

I had taken the 6 a.m. safari with a group of five other tourists and within an hour on route four we were able to sight a sub-adult tiger hidden behind the trees, As soon as we sighted the tiger, we halted our jeep and waited with breathless anticipation. The tiger moved stealthily towards the mountain stream and after quenching its thirst rested under the shade of a giant tree

There are several ancient trees inside the core area at Ranthambore . The trunks of some of these giant trees are as wide as five feet, having stood undisturbed over centuries. There are 70 tigers in Ranthambore and tiger sightings are fairly common once in six safaris on routes 4 and 5.

On the return drive, we were fortunate enough to see a tiger drinking water at close quarters. The temperature inside Ranthambore National Park in end April is pleasant with a few isolated showers towards the evening. Coming face to face with the tiger is an unforgettable experience. One can see an ancient temple of the local deity inside the reserve.

I could view wildlife throughout my drive from Jaipur to Ranthambore. On the way to Ranthambore, I could photograph a peacock, two chinkaras, several spotted deer and three sambars and one barking deer. On the return, I drove from Ranthambore to Jaipur through Tonk and could photograph several spotted deer. and a solitary wild boar, besides several Indian langurs and macaques.

I must mention that the drive through the jungles took us to three isolated water bodies where tiger spotting were common atleast once every week. I was shown the observation tower near the forest and invited to stay at Fort Nahargarh during my next visit for a sureshot chance of seeing one of Ranthambore’s 70 tigers by Dhruv Alsisar.

I must not fail to mention that the forest officials at Ranthambore are a helpful lot, though they are sometimes handicapped by the lack of vehicles and fuel. However, they make it up by offering close encounters with tigers, sambar and deer during your short trip into the forest after a 60 minute wait for the petrol to appear in our jeep for the return journey!

I also went for an early morning trek in the road outside the forest accompanied by a local guide to sight peacocks. I must admit that walking through the dense overgrowth in the twilight hours of the morning to photograph peacocks was one close encounter with nature, which I will always remember throughout my life.

After a two hour drive through the Ranthambore National Park on the way back to Fort Nahargarh, we could see a tiger climbing the hills and one is fortunate enough to have perfected point and shoot photography over the last twenty years since we started tips4ceos.com and digital cameras came into the market in 1995. We got this valuable photograph of the tiger.

Permissions:

The front office team at Fort Nahargarh arranges for forest permits and tickets for the jeep and bus safari at Ranthambore, Oberoi Vanya Vilas has a watch tower outside the forests which helps their guest’s spot tigers, without getting into a jeep. Leopards can be sighted on the hill near RTDC Guest House at Ranthambore. Avoid unsolicited advice from Non-Governmental Wildlife protection research teams, so called tiger experts, wildlife photographers and local guides. Just let the tiger find you like I did.

How to get there?:

The nearest international airport to reach Ranthambore is at New Delhi and the nearest domestic airport to reach Ranthambore is at Jaipur. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Ranthambore from New Delhi.

By flight:

The easiest way to get to Jaipur is by flight. Jaipur is connected to Chennai, Kolkata, Mumbai and New Delhi by direct flights. The easiest way to get from Jaipur to Ranthambore is by car. This 166 km. trip takes three hours. RSRTC buses take four hours for the same journey.

Where to eat?:

The vegetarian breakfast at Fort Nahargarh includes hot idlis with coconut chutney. There are very few vegetarian dhabas at Sawai Madhopur who dish up simple fare like roti, dal,aloo ki sabzi etc. Fresh fruits including bananas, papayas and tender-coconuts are available at streetside kiosks outside Ranthambore. Purchase seedless dates, walnuts, raisins and cashews enroute to Ranthambore and store in an airtight metal tiffin as I did, to recharge yourself during the long tiger safari.

Where to stay at Ranthambore?:

Fort Naharagarh at Ranthambore is the best place to stay. A deluxe double-room costs approximately. Rs.14000/- to Rs. 18000/- per night (including breakfast but exclusive of taxes). High spending Indian and foreign tourists frequent Fort Nahargarh luxury resort at this time of the year. The rooms are spacious and can comfortably accommodate a family of four with extra beds. The bathrooms are comfortable, with hot and cold water showers.

Weather in May:

The weather in May ranges from pleasant to hot. However, impromptu showers towards the evening are common. I slept at 8 p.m. and woke up at 4 a.m.

Another way to get there:

One can take the train from Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur Station which takes 2 hours. Walk down to the taxi-stand and take a local taxi (car) and alight at Fort Nahargarh. Avoid the overpriced private jeeps who have a habit of fleecing tourists. Buses to Ranthambore leave at regular intervals from Sawai Madhopur.

Nahargarh, the most luxurious hotel lies nestled at the foothills of the Aravallis neighboring the Ranthambore National Park. Surrounded by a 16th century style fortress, Nahargarh is built like a traditional Rajput palace complete with a step- well and manicured gardens. It sure is the perfect base to explore Ranthambore from the lap of nature.

Nahargarh is a complete habitat in itself as one can see several animals and birds, performing their playful acts in the surrounding grasslands. The proximity of Nahargarh to the National Park makes it a travellers’ hub. With 68 ultra luxurious rooms It offers the best-in-the-industry facilities for accommodation and dining. Nahargarh with its vast gardens well appointed conference halls and luxurious accommodations is also an ideal location for hosting fairytale weddings and conferences.

I was truly impressed with the level of detail which the Alsisars’ have considered while constructing this resort. The alcove, wall paintings, designs on the walls of the bedroom and dining hall were all very much impeccable. I was happy with the design of the room, as it was so well ventilated that at 40 degree centigrade without switching on the air-conditioner, we could sleep in the afternoons.

I also loved their food as it had lots of vegan options to choose from. Soya milk is available for vegans. All the staff members were very helpful during our stay and we are specially thankful to Mr. Mahipal Singh (GM) and Mr. Shravan Maini (Spa) and Mr. Dhruv Alsisar (owner) for their valued time in letting me know about the property and helping me making my trip memorable. This place is surely recommended and I intend to go back again in monsoon when the jungle is lush green.

I return after my jeep safari to a refreshing glass of nimbu-pani and get a herbal compress massage at Vilasa spa at Fort Nahargarh, managed effectively by Mr. Shravan Maini from Chandigarh. I must compliment the accupressure expert Mr. Luang from Nagaland, who dissolved all my aches and pains after the safari in an hour, where I drifted off to sleep while listening to the soothing music and dim lights at Vilasa spa. The spa treatments alone merit a visit to Fort Nahargarh at Ranthambore.

Fort Nahargarh is an ideal place to unwind after returning from one’s morning or evening safari. The most exciting part of living at Nahargarh was to expect the appearance of wildlife during dawn and dusk. The common Indian langur, long tailed macaques and peacocks are often seen on the trees surrounding this picturesque resort. For bookings email alsisar@alsisar.com

I really felt lucky to have sighted the tiger the next morning after checking in at Fort Nahargarh. I hope this luck rubs off on all our blog readers who stay at Fort Nahargarh during their visit to Ranthambore. Take the jeep going to route 4 or route 5 in the early morning safari that leaves Fort Nahargarh at 6:00 a.m.

Every good thing must come to an end and I bid Mr. Mahipal Singh goodbye to proceed to sight the leopards at Devigarh and blackbucks at Chandelaogarh with a return visit to hear the chirping sparrows at Dera Mandawa boutique resort at Jaipur.